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Back to London for J's Midsummer picnic in Greenwich. Train service between Manchester and London is spotty on Sundays, so we decided to make a weekend of it. On arrival we went to the new V&A East. Longish walk through an outdoor mall and past the aquatics center and several other buildings repurposed from the 2012 Olympics. I'd watched a show on iPlayer called Twenty Twelve, a mockumentary-style comedy where Hugh Bonneville plays the luckless soul leading assorted eccentrics through prep for the Olympics logistics. I think it says a lot about the British that their cultural response to getting the Olympics was to make a sitcom about what a clusterfuck it was going to be.


The museum website said there would be "very limited" room for "cabin sized bags" and we got there early enough that I thought we'd be OK. Maybe cabin means something different in England because none of the lockers were nearly big enough for our rollaboard suitcase. T heroically volunteered to sit in the cafe with the bag while I tried to psych the children up for exhibits interrogating the concept of function and inclusion. In the Music is Black exhibit, we got to wear headphones that automatically changed songs based on where we were standing as we moved through the exhibit. The hardware got them on board, and as I've mentioned they will stand stock still and watch absolutely any video in a museum so overall a reasonable amount of engagement. Maybe we've created some new Skepta fans? Cafeteria was v. v. good although N slightly miffed when he found out we'd palmed him off on the kids' pasta when there was smoked salmon to be had. When you're paying the bill, bucko!


I've decided that I'm now fun and chill, which meant that I said you know what let's skip the choir concept and just hang out!!! Playground 1, next to the museum, was in a hard glare. While the menfolk went on the climbing wall, I sat on a bench and eavesdropped to two women in their sixties. One pointed out where her granny's house would have been visible back in the day, and narrated the streets between her childhood home and that of said granny. The other had let one of her children use her M&S card to get herself something to eat but not for any of her friends, and the Ring camera will tell them if she tries to bring anyone over! When we got up to go, they lit those cigs so fast. Bless them for waiting! Playground 2 was near a cafe and had a splash pad, which meant it was very crowded. And then I noticed the chuck of feces on the path. A woman came along and realized it had fallen out of her child's diaper. Her half-hearted attempt to clean it made the situation rather more dire. The guy in the cafe said he'd call park security in a tone that suggested the situation would not be resolved in the short term. We left. Playground 3 was just right.


Dinner at Goddard's because it was Father's Day weekend and T had acquired a taste for jellied eel (It's eel that's in jelly.). They also have various savory pies which is what the rest of us ate. There was even a gluten-free pie, although it was only listed on the website. I suppose if you're a century-old landmark of working-class cuisine, mentioning your gluten free options kind of nukes the vibe. TBH I prefer the ones from Pieminster but I was extremely glad to have an alternative to jellied eel.


Fun and chill time was over the next morning. Unexpectedly saw J in the Sainsbury's parking lot! She must have had 68 things to do before the party, but she still gave us a lift to Greenwich Park. We skipped the pricey Observatory where you can see the Greenwich Mean line., it's not like we were going to see the toilets flush in the opposite direction or anything. The other free options were a former palace full of paintings of various royalty, and the nautical museum which had lots of interactive exhibits and activities for children. Guess where we spent most of our time???? There was a very awkward moment when we got to the nautical museum with just enough time for a speed run, and everyone just sort of took in what I'd done in organizing the itinerary thusly. Sometimes being bossy means having to own your failures.


Yo ho ho
Yo ho ho
But guys, it's Inigo Jones's first spiral staircase!
But guys, it's Inigo Jones's first spiral staircase!

Then the main event, picnic! Bread, cheese, fruit, hummus, snacks, and so on. Someone asked what would have been eaten at an American picnic, but I think the Massachusetts equivalent of this group would have made similar choices unless maybe a grill was involved. Maybe some Tate's cookies?


Got on our train, announcer said it was canceled. The kids remembered our long standing room only journey in April with unexpected fondness, so they were pumped. We could stay on the same train which would be used for the next departure 30 minutes later, but now we had to find seats in the unreservecd car. There were four free seats at a table but they were marked as priority for the elderly. After the April trip I assumed that combining two trains into one meant that some people would have to stand. What if someone needed to sit there after we'd settled in, and by then everywhere else was full? We moved to four regular seats and the table was taken by a group of young children whose mother and aunt sat across the aisle. They were reasonably well-behaved for the first 45 minutes or so. Then their games involved more and more shrieking, while the youngest two of the children took turns wailing whenever the other was having a turn playing cell phone games. Naturally, there were enough seats for everyone and we wouldn't have needed to move if we'd stayed there. And the train went out of service the stop before ours! Two buses later we got home. We were late enough to get all the money from our return ticket refunded but still got back at a decent hour, which at a certain point in an English train journey becomes the best possible outcome.

I went to London to see Quartet in Autumn, based on the book by Barbara Pym. I had earned enough Avanti points for a first class ticket: a slightly cushier seat and the option to order from a compact but adequate food and drink menu. I was the only passenger in the car, alone with my bacon sandwich and tea in a very tall narrow ceramic mug. Alone until a conductress came in with a small, extremely pale young woman who was settled in the corner, offered a cup of tea, and told not to worry when she said she hadn't paid for a first class ticket.


I slowly learned from their conversation that she was very nervous about the trip she was taking to meet some friends in Eastbourne. She hadn't brought her phone and supplied a variety of reasons as to why she couldn't get in touch with her husband. "Oh you have a baby?" said the conductress, a distinct "Dear Lord" note in her voice when that datapoint emerged. "How do you like being a mum?". "I find it quite hard," said the passenger. Nothing to be done until we got to London, no decisions having to be made, and as the woman continued to dither about whether to continue on to Eastbourne the conductress told her she could take her time and think about it until the train had to turn back up north.


We arrived and the woman took my offered granola bar. Another conductress sat with the woman while the first mouthed "KEEP HER TALKING". When we were out of earshot, she told me the woman had produced a ticket when she came through to check them, but then she had asked so many questions that something had seemed off about her. While we were moving she'd called ahead to the police. I passed them as I went up the ramp to the station.


First stop after this eventful journey was the William Morris Gallery in Walthamstow. Nice park to sit in for the half hour before it opened, watching the tennis players and upwardly mobile parents of North London pushing strollers. The gallery had an exhibit on female designers at Liberty and a permanent exhibit about Morris's work. There was an interactive display where you could simulate decisions about designers, product lines, and distribution channels and see which led to a successful business; my performance suggested that I should not go into the tile and wallpaper business. It was nice (and free) but I think his home, The Red House, would be more interesting. Sadly, tours books out months in advance and I will likely not see it before our departure. List of things I will have to catch on another visit is mounting.


Arsenal was playing PSG for the Champions League final. The game started at 5 but lines were forming in front of pubs at 10am. On to Highgate, I learned my lesson after skipping it in March and getting FOMO. I got a tour for an extra 10 GBP which made for an informative and unsettling experience. The cemetary is covered with dense, barely controlled vegetation that was almost entirely self-seeded over decades of neglect when the plots had all been sold and there was no more money coming in. Some parts are blocked off because roots have grown enough to topple the monuments.


The guide pointed out Alexander Litvinenko and George Michael, among many others; Marx is there but he was too far away to cover in the tour. Mention of hand-sized rare cave dwelling spiders found in the mausoleums. He took us into the crypt where some of the coffins have deteriorated so much that the bones have come tumbling out. I did not catch a glimpse of the skull sitting on a shelf as some did. I made sure I was not at the back of the line when we were filing out.


This picture makes the crypt look way too bright and cheery
This picture makes the crypt look way too bright and cheery
Plot for the family of the company that cast the Liberty Bell
Plot for the family of the company that cast the Liberty Bell
Douglas Adams
Douglas Adams

The guide went longer than the hourish I was expecting but it was worth every penny and minute. The Arsenal fans were now out in even greater numbers. What were they doing? Communing. Made it to the theatre with just enough time to get a water and a pack of Skilttles, which was good because it was extremely warm inside. There had been some reconfiguration of the seats, and it took a few rounds of shuttling between entrances and a reprinted ticket before I was settled. A woman behind me fanned herself throughout the performance while wearing what sounded like the sextuplet offspring of a bangle and a xylophone, clang clang clang. Play wasn't bad but they could have leaned into the pettiness a little more.


Met up with F, who lived down the hall from me when I was at Sussex. The Arsenal fans precluding any hope of getting a seat elsewhere, we went to Dan's, a wine bar. F was never one for sentimental niceties. "I really don't like Manchester at all!", he replied when I gave the spiel about what we were doing in England. But it wasn't all gloom. Maybe it was the wine on a stomach lined with nothing more than Skittles and a PBJ on the bus ride from the cemetary, but it was the first time since I got here that a conversation veered toward what the hell is up with America RN that I wasn't desperate to redirect, including detailed comparison of desis in the Republican and Reform parties. Most English people who talk to me about American politics seem to feel a degree of relish for how awful we are because it makes them feel like, now really, they were never as bad as that. F meanwhile did not describe Britain as the utopia of tolerance and multiculturalism that a lot of very well-meaning white people here see it. I meanwhile realized with some discomfort that it was the longest conversation I've had with a non-white English person since I got here.


Time to go. F said that he was very unlikely to ever be in Boston. "I might be able to catch you if you're in New York!" I said, prompting him subtly convulse with alarm. First class car was more full but less eventful than my morning journey. Cheese plate a bit skimpy but GF crackers very much appreciated in my heightened state. Arsenal lost, but it was about the friends we made along the way.

More assorted outings.


Bronte Parsonage Museum. There are two major Bronte sites in Yorkshire. There's their birthplace, which also operates as an AirBnB so you can SLEEP IN CHARLOTTE"S ROOM. We went to the parsonage in Haworth where they spent most of their lives. It was an appropriately dreary day. An hour before we were supposed to leave, I got an alert that our train was on target to arrive on time. Great news! Just as I had finished threatening my children with the fires of hell if they didn't put their shoes on, I got an alert that our train was canceled because of a schedule change. Surely that can't be right, I thought, and frogmarched everyone to the station. It was right. Conciliatory hot chocolate, eventually followed by two trains, a bus, and a walk up an extremely picturesque but perilous cobblestoned hill.



The museum was crowded when we got there, and a school group was hard on our heels. "Boring! Boring!" sang the chorus beside me, reasonably questioning what they were getting out of our journey. Guys, one day you'll be able to say you saw the couch that Emily died on!



Things turned around for children at Mrs. Beightons Traditional Sweet Shop, where a very patient woman guided them through their purchases. Our choices: Kendal Mint Cake which is sort of a firm chocolate-free York Peppermint Patty. Popular for twentieth century hikers and brought by Sir Edmund Hilary to Everest, the factory workers donating their sweet rations so they could make enough in time for his expedition. Anise drops. Sarsparilla drops for T. Fry's Orange Cream, a dark chocolate covered orange fondant. Not my preferred chocolate to fondant ratio, sadly the Lee's brand that I liked more is out of business. N got a tube of sour and luridly orange candy spray, B got a ring pop. Tablet, sort of a toffee-burfi-fudge, a little softer than I prefer. Rhubarb cream chews, the shopgirl's favorite. Reasonably content and very sticky ride home.



Liverpool. My friend from high school came to visit and we went to Liverpool to see our other friend who lives there now. We met for lunch in the Philharmonic Dining Rooms, a gorgeous pub where N had a cheeseburger with a hashbrown on top.


On to the Hardman House, a rather offbeat National Trust property. It was a photography studio in the fifties, and when the owner's wife died and he became too infirm to climb stairs the upper floors were essentially a moment of midcentury life preserved in amber for decades.


Disassembled Anderson air raid shelter
Disassembled Anderson air raid shelter
A Photograph of Your Baby as he or she now looks can only be taken NOW.  WE APOLOGISE FOR STATING THE OBVIOUS: IT IS JUST A REMINDER THAT BABYHOOD SOON PASSES
A Photograph of Your Baby as he or she now looks can only be taken NOW. WE APOLOGISE FOR STATING THE OBVIOUS: IT IS JUST A REMINDER THAT BABYHOOD SOON PASSES

I glazed over a little when the guide showed us the cameras and developing rooms, although a week later one of the children made a remark about the photos on display that Hardman had been commissioned to take at a cookie factory so someone was paying attention. But it's very easy to see nothing here but the homes of the high and mighty, so I appreciated the look at everyday life.


Chetham's Library. A few months ago I was on a tour at the Quarry Bank Mill and got to talking to a woman from Lincoln who comes over to babysit her grandchildren every week. We realized her son lives just down the street from us, so we exchanged numbers and made loose plans to set up another outing during the school day. We landed on Chetham's Library, the oldest public library in Britain. The building had lived a thousand lives, from the 1400's onward. It's still a working research library


If books weren't chained to the shelves, the researcher was locked in until they were finished with them
If books weren't chained to the shelves, the researcher was locked in until they were finished with them
Marx and Engels' preferred study nook
Marx and Engels' preferred study nook
Books chained to shelves
Books chained to shelves


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